Archive for March, 2011

PO Box 311

One of the things I have always loved about Maine is it’s sense of independence, one that probably exists in all small towns around the nation. It’s still possible to buy a piece of remote land up here, drop off the grid and disappear. I can still plan a week long canoe trip that will avoid all human contact. We’re lucky to live in a state that still has gray areas and exceptions. One of the nice people at the town hall let me register my motorcycle on a Friday, when they knew I wouldn’t have a document that allowed me to ride legally until Monday, with a beautiful weekend forecast. They made me promise I wouldn’t ride it ’till Monday. They trusted me…I promised…and kept my word. Think that would happen in CT where I grew up? Ha…good luck with that. Speaking of motorcycles, thanks to a good political action committee we’re one of the few states where you have the personal freedom to make your own choice as to whether or not you want to wear a helmet. And despite all the spins anyone can put on that idea, it is indeed a personal freedom, and one that we will lose in time. I once popped out of the woods from hunting to find a state trooper idling behind my car. I walked right up to his drivers side window, 12 guage shotgun in tow to find out he was just making sure everything was ok. How many states can you walk up to a state trooper with a gun? In other states back-up would have been called and I would have been spread-eagled on his car hood…you can bet on that. I used to know all the cops in town and unless you were doing something well outside the law, they left you alone. They kept the secrets that needed keeping, and did what they felt was right, and everything was as it should be. We are losing those little freedoms here slowly but surely, drip by drip. Each year there is a little tiny something that changes and limits our freedoms in some small way, bringing us closer to the cookie cutter one size fits all nanny states found in the cities of our nation, where you’re a number and not a person.

For me, interestingly, this subtle change of limited freedom boiled down to the microcosm of a Post Office box in Seal Harbor.

PO Box 311.

We don’t have rural delivery here..we all have to go to the post office to get our mail. They tried to get delivery here, but it was refused by the townspeople. Why? Socialization. For generations the post office was the place to socialize with the rest of the town, and at 9 am when the mail was out it used to be packed with people talking and catching up on gossip. Just like in the good ole days. Having this kind of system brings with it a set of challenges in getting things delivered, and I swear about it regularly, but for the most part it works. PO Box 311 has been in my family since the post office in town was built. Well, maybe not that long, but at least since the early 1930′s. Some of my earliest memories are of going to that post office to get the mail for our family, and for the folks that my grandfather got the mail for. My grandfather also had a prolific rose garden, and he brought a bouquet of roses to the post office on a routine basis during the summer months. My parents have kept up that tradition since his passing, so literally my family has kept roses in the post office for 60 years or more. Again, something you can enjoy in a small town. For my entire LIFE PO Box 311 was never locked. It was pushed to…closed, but not latched, a scenario that again, persisted for 60 years or more. Then, the postmistress for all of those years retired, and we got a new one…not from Maine..or a small town. I arrived after work the day after she arrived to find the postbox was locked, probably for the first time ever. I know it was trivial, and I know in the grand scheme of things this is the stuff your supposed to let slide. I’m not sure if I was tired, had a bad day, or what, but something snapped in my head that day. One person wasn’t going to inconvenience me in this small way. I asked her to open it for me, and why it was locked. She gave me a dirty look, opened it for me, and said they were going to be locked from now on…I wondered if that was in a memo somewhere. I didn’t have the combination..no one in my family even knew what it was, and I asked her for it. I noticed many other people from town having the same issue, and I suspect she had a very bad day at work that first day, for what in her mind was a simple decision to keep the boxes closed..the way it was where she came from. For me, this was going to be an issue, and daily I would leave the box door closed, but not locked to find it locked the next day. I would ask her to open it, ask again for the combination, tell her I couldn’t get it to work and in general try to make things as difficult as possible for the next several weeks. I suspect others did as well. Then one day I arrived and it wasn’t locked, and it continued to not be for the rest of her stay. A tiny victory for a trivial issue, but nevertheless my freedom to have the post office box open in a small town was intact. Being a small town, everybody knows one another, and often would ask someone to get their mail if they new they were going to be gone during the hours that the post office was open. Pretty much everyone did it at some point or another. Turns out there was a memo against that too. I can understand that rule in a large city, but here there are no strangers, or people looking to steal your mail. After several months of dealing with all of this I think eventually the new postmaster knew everybody, and learned that there are some places left in the world where one size fits all doesn’t apply. Our boxes stayed unlocked,people were able to get one another’s mail, and things were back to the way they should be.

After the new postmaster retired we had a fill in for a couple of years. He was from the next town over, so there really weren’t any problems. The only one I can remember is he was just a bit to nosy, and when you came in for your mail, he would talk to you about what you got that day. “Hey I saw you got something from the Maine Sportsman today, did you write another story for them?” He meant well, but sometimes it did get a little irritating. I never got around to it but I always wanted to play a little joke on the guy, and send away for something like Swinging sexy singles group cruise or something similar. Before I got the chance, we had a new postmaster, and before I knew it, I was writing a letter on his behalf. The town swells with people in the summer, many of them have million dollar homes where they just spend a couple of months out of the year. The new postmaster seemed like a nice guy, he was quiet, and we had really barely spoken. He had been there for several months, when I heard the news from someone in town, that he was very upset that someone had complained that he couldn’t bring his dog with him to work anymore. Dog??  I hadn’t even noticed that there was a dog there. While it was being hashed out, I took the time to notice the dog, and give him a treat. I took note that the way the post office was set up, it was impossible for the dog to reach anybody. He was behind the back counter, with a door and a wall between him and any post office patrons. Why would anyone complain about that? Apparently the word came down from the USPS that the dog had to go because of the complaint, and I overheard the postmaster telling someone that the dog was confused in the mornings now, having to stay home, and was acting like he had done something wrong. It also turned out that the complainant was a summer person…someone here for just a couple of months a year changing the way things work the rest of the 10 months. I went home and put pen to paper. I wish I still had the letter…it was well crafted. I described the town, why we had the post office and not rural delivery, that we had a lot of elderly people in town whose entire DAY was planned around going to the post office just to see that dog, and give him a treat. I explained how we were a small town, and it’s little things like this that make us special, and make us appreciate living in a place like this. I would not expect to see a dog in a store in Hartford, but if I walk into a country store in Maine, I do expect to see a dog, and maybe even the occasional chicken running around. The same goes for a rural post office in Maine. Sometimes there are exceptions to rules, and the cookie cutter mentality doesn’t apply. How is it we have turned into a place where one person can ruin it for everybody, bringing everything down to the lowest common denominator? Why is it we can’t respond by saying “Yes there is a dog in this Post Office. If you have an issue with that there are several other Post Offices within a couple of miles that you can use.” But no one ever says that. They just say the dog has to go, and he gets to sit home thinking he’s done something wrong, while the summer person who complained jets off to somewhere else for 10 months and bitch about something there too probably. My letter was a two page plea and essay to this manager asking her to reconsider her decision. I got a short letter back from here thanking me for my thoughts but basically that rules were rules. I had expected that. The next day when I walked into the post office, the postmaster asked me if I was the one that wrote the letter about his dog the the USPS. I said that I was. He looked at me with the sincerest look in his eye and said “Thanks”. “That was a really nice thing for you to do, and I really appreciate it.” Turns out he is privy to any complaint or praise about the Post Office, so he saw my letter. It also meant he knew the identity of the person that complained. I wasn’t the only one that it bothered…others in town started a petition…I signed it, as well as about 40 others or so. 40 people saying they want the dog back, and because of that one person, the USPS said no to the petition too. I know you’re thinking that there are bigger things to worry about, but sometimes worrying about these simple little things is what is key to keeping the bigger pieces of our freedom and liberty later. It’s what makes us special and unique. It turned out however, that we all won. I’ll never know if perhaps the Post Office was in on the deal, moved by our petition and letter, but the way it worked out was that the Postmaster would know, or be told when the complainant was in town. When she was there, the dog stayed home. When she wasn’t there, the dog was at the Post Office and gave many years of pleasure and fun to everyone, but especially the elderly folks that came to see him, make of him, and give him a treat. I’ll guarantee you that it made their entire day, and gave them something to look forward too. That’s what makes a small town special.

That’s the story of PO Box 311. There are many secrets in this town, some open, some guarded, and some hidden behind a Post Office box number. I wish I could hear all of them.

 

A Cabin in the Woods


 

When I think of a cabin in the woods , I picture thick pine logs crafted into a squat building with a purlin roof and a curl of smoke passing from a stone chimney into frigid night air.  I’m not sure when the dream to have such a cabin took hold of me, but it took a turn in early 2000 when I bought 30 acres of  remote Maine woodland.  On my first viewing of the property within the first few minutes of entering the woods, I saw several deer and flushed a partridge, and looking around the vista surrounding me, I knew this was the place to realize the dream of a log cabin.  Of course the dream met reality, and I had to scale back my plans to what a working Mainer could afford.  At first, I looked at the kits from log home manufacturers.   Then I looked into cutting the cedar trees already on the property and paying to have them milled, but it was still too expensive.  Then I came across rough plans for a vertical log structure, in the old “trapper” style, aptly named because it could be built by one person, and the was the style the old trappers used to use on their traplines for a place to stay for the night.  Having only the most basic of carpentry skills, I decided to take things one step at a time, rather than letting the whole project begin overwhelming me.  I began harvesting the cedar logs , cut 73 inches long with a chain saw from the property, stripped their bark in the woods, and lugging them out one by one over my shoulder to the place where I had decided to build the cabin.  Old books advocate cutting the logs in winter so they would dry slower and thus be less apt to “check” during the process.  I suppose there is some truth to that, but stripping off cedar bark during the winter is hard work.  Granted, if you wait long enough it does get easier, but in spring and summer I could literally peel them faster than I could cut them.  When the change came in late August, it was dramatic.  One week the logs were easy to peel, and the next it was a bit harder, and then as the trees got ready for winter, it became really hard work to get one peeled.  I used a drawing knife and an old log peeler found in my grandfather’s garage.  I did experience some checking with the summer cut logs, but it wasn’t all that dramatic.  The biggest problem was the mold that grew on the wet wood.   I waited too long to bleach it, and some of it was permanently stained.  It took the weekends of two summers to get the bulk of the logs cut, peeled, and stacked to dry.  With the wood stacked, and still some time before winter set in, I decided to tackle the foundation. The area I had picked was relatively clear and level, needing only a little tree trimming.  After thinking it over and reading a couple of basic construction books, I decided the most viable and least expensive option was sonatube concrete piers.  The biggest problem with piers for a foundation is heaving in cold weather when the ground freezes and thaws.  But the soil at the cabin site was sandy, which meant it shouldn’t hold too much moisture.  I relied heavily on a wonderful book called Back to Basics   published by Reader’s digest, for the basic foundation knowledge.  This book has a wealth of information about all aspects of the old ways and common sense construction, but I was unable to find specific information on how far apart the support piers should be placed.  After speaking with a couple of local carpenters I decided on a dozen.  I then got it all square following the directions in the book, and  got it level using the old style batten boards.  At this point I rented a power auger and drilled the holes for the sonatubes, four feet deep for each.  I lugged in all of the 80 pound concrete bags by hand along with the water, and then mixed it on site.  With the upcoming winter approaching, I was happy to stop at this point, and anxious to see how the piers would survive the winter.  That winter was quite cold yet the piers showed no signs of failure that spring, so I felt comfortable that all was well.  It was time to start building.  The sills went on first, attached to the concrete piers with screws and metal brackets.  The joists and floor went on relatively quickly, and with only a few problems, all of which were fixable with a little backwoods engineering.  I was dreading beginning the walls with my less than perfectly straight logs, but they actually went on quite smoothly.  I would hold each log up against the last one installed and turn it to get the best fit.  Sometimes a log wouldn’t fit at all and a new one was chosen.  The logs were toe nailed to the sills.  Of course none of the logs were perfectly straight, but by using a level and eyeballing, I was able to guesstimate when things were as straight as they were going to get.  My goal for the gaps between the logs was an inch or less, and for most of them it was a half inch or less, with a couple of 2 inch exceptions.  I had to tear out several logs and replace them at one point as they looked straight close up, but crooked from a distance.  I tried to make things easy and simple and towards that end I cheated a bit on the windows and door by using landscape timbers that were milled flat on two sides and rounded on the other two.  By putting two landscape timbers together on either side of the windows and door, I created a nice straight and level place to nail the header and fit the frame.  With the goal of simplicity, I placed the top of the window header at the top of the wall and used landscape timbers as cripples to support the bottom of the window.  The header attached to the two landscape timbers took any weight off of the window frame.  I put in three windows and a door using this method, and they all fit and worked fine.  Once the walls and the windows were in I placed two landscape timbers on top of the wall, staggering where they butted against each other for strength.  This really strengthened the walls, made them a little taller, and gave me a place to attach the birds mouth of the rafters.  I learned from the mistake of a neighbor who was also building a cabin at the same time, to shore up the walls before putting up the rafters.  The rafters put pressure on the walls, especially before the collar ties are in place, and my neighbors walls bowed out after he put on the rafters.  Another lesson I learned with this project is that dimensional lumber isn’t exactly dimensional.  Several rafters jut out past others because they were longer than 8 feet.  A professional carpenter told me that they know this and slice off the ends after the job is done, I thought I had somehow screwed up measuring or cutting, until I thought to measure the original length of the board.  I consulted a carpenter’s book for the roof, which was built conventionally with a birds mouth to fit the landscape timbers on top of the walls, collar ties, and a ridgepole.  The only part of the cabin I probably could not have done myself was the ridgepole.  I put plywood on top of the roof,  and shingled it.  I wanted a metal roof, but the cost at the time was prohibitive.  At this point fall was fast approaching and I needed to get the cabin sealed for winter.  To fill in the gaps in the logs I used backer rod, which is formed from closed cell foam.  I was able to find it at a local hardware store in the mason’s section and I was able to order different sizes on line from a log kit company.  The backer rod filled in any gaps that were 1/8 inch or greater, and then I  put log jam over the backer rod.  Log jam is expensive stuff, but in my opinion, worth every penny due to the ease of use.  No mixing, simply squirt in in the gaps with a caulking gun and tool the excess with a putty knife.  I used 15 gallons for the whole outside of the cabin, with some left over for any gaps that might open later.   For heat I installed a woodstove and a back-up gas heater, along with a couple of small solar panels for lights.  I’m happy with the way the cabin came out, and I feel a huge sense of accomplishment when I stand back and watch the smoke coming from the chimney.

This is a portion of the story I felt fortunate to have published in the June 2006 edition of Fur Fish Game.

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A Midwinter’s night

Our voices are now hushed
Snow muffles our steps creaking beneath our feet
The world has become surreal
And here we are now but guests
Silently we pass through the eerie shadows cast
From the moon hanging in the frigid night
There is no sound but our breath to break the cold
Stillness its vapor hanging around our heads like
A shroud before rising in the cold stillness.
I feel so ALIVE the  cold coloring my cheeks
Cleans my nose
Reaches for my lungs
My senses become acute
I could see a shadow move
Hear a small twig break
notice the mouse tunneling under the snow
If I saw someone I think I would hide
Melt into the shadows of the night world
I have become a part of
The fresh ice settles under our feet
I feel with all of my senses
Is it safe?
A white patch of snow midstream is out of place
I can feel timeless history move my hands as
The catch is removed
I can hear those that came before. Whispering
In the cold night air.
Block it here
Put a stick there
Nothing breaks the solitude
We shoulder our packs
The miles pass beneath our feet
I want it to go on forever
I want another set to check
But all too soon my eyes are adjusting to the streetlights
And I am learning to drive again
It seems so foreign so wrong
So opposite of where we just were
Running a trapline on a mid -winters night.

Allagash Lake


It took me three attempts in a five year period to finally reach this beautiful place, one of Maine’s most remote waters, Allagash Lake.  The lake is accessible only via a long hike in from Johnson Pond, or by canoe, and there are no internal combustion engines allowed on the lake.  To access the lake by canoe is more involved than it may sound. One way is to paddle all of Chamberlain Lake (an Allagash River headwater), a distance of about 16 miles, and then pole 6 miles UP Allagash Stream to the eastern end of Allagash Lake.   It is also possible to drive to a put in on Allagash Stream and paddle downstream to the western end of the lake.  Both methods involve their own set of hardships.  Another way I have read about to get in is via a carry trail coming in to the south end of the lake, which I never attempted to find, nor have I found any accounts of anyone that has actually entered the lake this way.  Allagash Lake covers 4,360 acres and spans 3 and a half miles, averaging 35 feet deep, it’s deepest being 89 feet.  It is renowned for it’s brook trout fishing. My first attempt to visit this lake was during a trip down the Allagash River.  In the deadwater that signifies the transition from lake to stream at the northwestern end of Chamberlain Lake, we glided by the derelict Umbazookus railroad trestle, with it’s twisted rails decending into the tannin colored water.  The canoe was laden with a weeks worth of provisions for the river, and the stream was swollen with three inches of thunderstorm rain from two nights previous.  The situation quickly became unmanageable and went from bad to worse.  I paddled and then fashioned a makeshift pole, and then hopped in the chest deep stream and pulled the canoe upstream before discretion became the better part of valor and I turned around.  Resting as the current took  it’s hold on us I noticed the beauty of the fir and spruce covered banks of this narrow stream, and the peaceful feeling of how remote this was.  I instantly vowed a return trip, and to make it a destination instead of a side trip.  After poring over maps, a year or so later I attempted the trip again, this time driving to the put in on Allagash Stream with the hope of  paddling down to the lake and returning back upstream, a distance of about three miles.  Due to the numerous logging roads a current and updated map is essential.  DeLorme map publishes  the Maine Atlas and Gazateer, which is a must have for this region.  Logging roads change constantly so use other landmarks such as streams when using a map to get to the put in on Allagash Stream.   Driving in this way had it’s own set of hardships, and I was very happy that I was in a 4 wheel drive vehicle.  There were numerous brook crossings and a beaver dam with a washed out culvert that had to be crossed as well.  I made it to the put in, there appeared to be enough water to float the canoe, and no shortage of black flies.  With the canoe packed, we headed downstream only to bottom out around the first bend.  We were able to walk the canoe for a while and ever the optimist I reassured myself by thinking surely around the next bend there will be enough water for us to float, but eventually were forced to turn back.  The return trip came in June of 2002, this time with my father who was a large part of my interest in canoeing and a fitting companion for a finally successful trip.  My main goal at the lake was the ice caves, which lie on the southwestern shore and take their name from the ice found in them year round. We arrived at the put in and loaded the canoe.  Our first trial was the clouds of black flies.  At one point I stuck my head in the truck to get my water shoes, and several minutes after closing the door the sun’s heat killed the black flies that had come in with me, which turned the dashboard black with their remains.   In all the years I have spent canoeing in Maine, I truthfully have never seen the black flies as bad as they were then, and I would have given my paycheck for a bug net.  The first bend, where I had bottomed out before floated us just fine.  I smelled success for a moment before the stream captured my full attention as we twisted and turned the canoe around the rocks and occasional spruce branch strainer.   On the way we noticed where turtles had crawled up onto a sandbar and deposited eggs.  The stream began with good current and as we neared the lake it got deeper and slowed down considerably.  We watched a huge trout zip under the canoe, headed upstream.  Rounding a bend the lake came into view – I had finally made it!  The first campsite was just past where the lake begins, and we waved to it’s occupants as we went by.  Maine fishing is legendary and Allagash Lake is renowned for it’s fishery.  I believe this lake is as good as it gets as far as the way “fishing used to be”.  The lake surface that day was smooth as glass which, as any person who has canoed a large Maine lake before would agree, is not the normal state of affairs.  So, without further ado, we hopped back in to the canoe after setting up camp for a little trolling.  Trolling by paddle is one of the best fishing techniques there is, because every stroke of the paddle varies the lure speed, and gives it a more natural appearance.  We fished for several minutes before my rod bent over, and the line began singing off the reel.  There we were on a lake that looked like a mirror, in the remote Maine wilderness, with a big fish on. For a moment I forgot the bugs in the excitement.  Several minutes later I landed a nice 17 inch brook trout.  We caught and landed several more fish in the 18 inch range before hunger brought us in off the water.  After an enjoyable dinner and evening, we went to bed amidst the chorus of loons. Early the next morning we had a quick breakfast and hit the lake again in search of brookies.  Someone was looking over us this trip, as my paddle made the only ripples across the surface for another day.  We explored the lake which is extremely beautiful and rugged.  After lunch, we went to the ice cave which had an easily visible path to it.  We made it in as far as I dared to go, which was a point where you would have to ease through a little crevice in the rocks, almost cervix like in appearance.  Upon getting back to camp I saw a timber-jack, a/k/a a canda jay.  Legend has it that these birds are deceased loggers that have come back to life and that it is good luck to feed them.  They are by nature very tame, and as I hadn’t seen one in many years, I fed it some crackers. There was a baby nearby in a tree, and it got some crackers as well, brought to it by it’s mother.  On the day we left, as we packed and took pictures of the sunrise, a bald eagle sat in a tree and watched us.  The trip upstream was much easier than I had anticipated, only taking us a couple of hours.  This trip was extremely rewarding, and the possibilities surrounding it, and other trips in the region are seemingly endless, all of it in fascinating country, both in history and scenery.

A great satellite image of Allagash Lake can be found  here.

Note: this is a portion of  a story I felt lucky to get published in the now defunct Paddle and Portage magazine Summer 2003.  I wish it was still in print, it was a great magazine.

 




Jordan Pond – Acadia National Park

I used to  ice fish most of the weekends during the winter on Jordan Pond which is in Acadia National Park. It is a rugged looking area especially in the winter. The pond has mountains erupting from the east and west sides which create a wind tunnel effect and the wind is often blowing consistently there. Jordan Pond is deep – upwards of 150 feet in some places and multiple springs that used to make the portable depth finder on my canoe go haywire and not be able to find bottom. Lake trout (togue) and landlocked salmon are found within it’s depths. It was originally part of the ocean and carved during the last ice age which also left a large erratic rock on top of one of the mountains next to the pond known as Bubble Rock. As the glacier melted till was deposited at the south end of the pond and cut it off from the ocean. On the west side of the pond is an area known as the tumbledown where rocks from the glacial age continue to fall to this day, especially in the spring. On the left side of the pond before the tumbledown is an area known as ice cove where ice used to be harvested in the days before we had electricity for refrigeration. My family still has pictures of the ice being harvested with large hand saws that cut the ice into blocks. During the winter months ice shanties dot the ice which people use to stay warm when they go fishing. They are typically eight by 12 with windows to view the tip ups outside used for fishing. Some have wood stoves in them and some are heated by propane, and some are even heated simply by the sun. I had one of those shacks and ventured out one weekend day when the temperature was 22 below 0. There was little wind that morning but I froze on the way out to the shack. After warming up some by the fire I kindled in the woodstove, I ventured out and drilled the first hole of the day as the sun was beginning to peak onto the ice. The auger I used drilled a 10 inch hole and after getting the tip up out and ready to go, a process that only took a few minutes at the most the hole had frozen enough that I had to break the ice with my foot and re-clear the ice from the hole. I stood and watched as the hole refroze again. I cleared the ice and again stood to watch the water freeze. It seemed to fill up with tiny air bubbles, almost as if boiling water without the rolling boil. I watched the phenomenon a couple of more times, and then drilled a new hole for the next tip up. By then the wind had begun to pick up a little bit and the small smelts I was using for bait would literally freeze solid in the few seconds it was out of the bucket, put on the hook, and into the drilled hole. By this time I was feeling that this was a futile attempt to try to catch a fish, packed up and went home, but I’ll always remember the day that I watched water freeze.

True North

Years ago, while reading a magazine, I noticed the fine print at the end of a story stated that if the reader had any interest in outdoor pursuits and getting out of the rat-race to pick up a copy of True North by Eliot Merrick,  further mentioning that it was a must read classic.     I wrote the title and author down and made a mental note to take a look for it sometime.  Weeks later I looked on-line for the book and discovered it was out of print…some classic.  There were a few copies for sale on the second hand market, but at ridiculous prices.  I thought of giving up looking for it, but something was nagging at me to keep looking.  The author of the magazine article has seemed so adamant that it was a ‘must read’.  Deciding to take a second look I called the library and inquired after the book and surprisingly they had one.  But, it wasn’t in the mainstream catalog..rather it was classified under “B” for basement.  So, the next day found me in the basement of  the library replete with cobwebs and flickering bare lightbulbs looking for the book in the catacombs of stacks.  Suddenly, there it was;

TRUE NORTH
Elliot Merrick
B

I took it home and read it.  Then I read it again..this time jotting down the quotes that I liked.   Except it seemed that the whole book was a quote.   With a raise at work I then bought one of the copies on-line at  the ridiculous price and read it two more times.  (It has since been put back in print).
The Readers Digest condensed version of the story, written in 1933, is Elliot is fed up with the daily grind of city life and work, so he quits everything and moves to Labrador.  Great simple story right?  It’s the passion and emotion in the writing that gets you.

Why should a person leave all this day after day,  month after month, for the roaring city?……Every morning the fight began all over again….Each day the hours squeezed in like the sides of a vise….this great stone desert, these mammoth buildings, the subways,the screaming ads, the glittering, slippery tumult of cars and busses and white faces…the slums, the dirt and the smell and the ugliness, the water mains and lights…the street sweepers, the smoke, who wants them?  Not I. Why do we stand for it, what is it doing to us? Why am I working and paying for it?”
Who wants a little box of a house in a suburb, a little car with a little garage to put it in, and little hope?”
“Shall I live enmeshed in such a hopelessly organized  society that I am dependent upon and helpless before a butcher, a baker, a politician, a judge, a president….all of this is not much to me as the fall of one autumn leaf.”

Why must I be helpless before and dependent upon…. powerful words.  Think about that and re-read it – Helpless before and dependent upon.  Why are we that way?  Why don’t we do more things for ourselves?  Think about our food sources….the e-coli break outs, the antibiotics in our meat….I once got listeria from a contaminated hot dog and really thought I was going to die.   Think of the processed food we eat…what’s it doing to us?  What are the reasons for higher cancer rates?  For the higher rates of autism?
Who are you helpless before and dependent on and why?

It’s strikingly similar to Thoreau who wrote;
I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived.”

Also similar to one of my favorite poems by Robert Service called Scared of it All It’s a long poem, but look it up if you are so inclined..it worth a couple of reads.

Elliot finishes his awakening with pounding on the wall in the middle of the night screaming in his mind that he was getting out.
Have you ever done that?  I have – maybe more metaphorically than physically perhaps, but I have.

This moment is worth twice what it cost, I should like to die in a place like this. I’d die five years sooner to be allowed to die here”
Have you ever been that emotional that you could die 5 years sooner just to be there?  I have…and I want to achieve that again.

Is it possible to achieve what Elliot did in this day and age?  Perhaps.  But probably not in the same way.
So, if you’ve ever pounded on the wall at night, if you feel you are “helpless before and dependent on”  too much, if you’ve ever experienced  the call of the woods, of living and embracing life itself, then get and read this book.  It will change you.  And it is a must read classic.

Italicized print represents excerpts from the book True North by Eliot Merrick

Note: When I was looking for this book, it was out of print.  It has since been republished and you can find a copy by clicking the link below:

Gramp

Standing on the fresh December ice I paused to watch the morning sun peek  over the trees.  It was very still and the sun’s rays began to dance on the snow creating gold’s, yellows, and reds surrounding me.  My breath hung about me like a cloud in the frigid air as I watched and at that very moment I felt an overwhelming sense of timelessness.  Thoughts poured forth in my head and I paused once more ere I lay the chisel to the ice as I pondered my sense of peace and deep belonging to the scene surrounding me.
All the choices, decisions, travels and years that led up to that day on the ice were due in large part to the influence my Grandfather had on the early years of my life.  Gramp was a tall and slender man with large hands, and was always wearing tan dickie work clothes and a tan hat with a extra large black bill.   Born in 1903 in rural Maine, his early life was hard and poor and included losing a 4 year old son to polio whose grave bears  a single epitaph, “our buddy”.  An old black and white picture of the boy still hangs in the pantry of Gramp’s house, which is still in the family.  In those days work was scarce and mostly was only during the summer, forcing the residents of the small community to get by as they could which meant hunting, canning, and fur trapping for food and money.  Gramp had several different jobs over the years, but eventually fell in to becoming a gardener for a large estate on the Maine coast, which meant working all summer to live through the winter.  He had a passion for gardening especially roses, and my parents still continue the rose garden that he started many years ago, including some of the original plants.  Gramp was an accomplished woodsman and survived independently, raising and supporting a family with his knowledge of the woods, the water, and the land.
I was born in 1968 some 65 years after my Grandfather near Hartford CT and worlds apart from Maine.  Thankfully both of my parents kept close ties  to their hometown and family so I got to spend my summers in Maine as a child and even got baptized there.  My first memory of my grandfather was when I was four or five and in Gramp’s kitchen which was typical for rural Maine – there was a low ceiling with a woodstove in the corner that stood next to a copper water tank which absorbed the heat from the woodstove and provided hot water.  The tank had to be drained periodically if you didn’t use hot water or it would dance around it’s spot in the kitchen when the water got too hot.  The wood stove was later updated to a gas stove, but the copper hot water tank stayed until just recently.   I was sitting on the floor of the kitchen amusing myself with a big flashlight pushing the big button so the light would flash on and off on the “ice box”.  Gramp never stopped calling it an ice box as in the days before electricity the town used ice harvested from a local pond in the bottom of the ice box to keep food cold, storing the ice through the summer in the ice house which was an insulated house that stored the ice packed in wood shavings.  Ice packed in this way would stay cold throughout the summer months, and was delivered to the homes in town as needed.  Gramp sat down next to me on the floor that evening and marveled at the slide show I was presenting with the flashlight ohhing and ahhing and making a big deal out of each slide that I showed.    I always enjoyed visiting my grandparents and marveling at all the sights and smells of their home, and when it was time to leave  at the end of summer, my parents consistently had to drag me kicking and screaming to the car.
As I grew up my relationship with Gramp transcended from Grandfather and Grandson to one of friends, often sitting and talking for hours together.  During the summer months when we were in Maine I visited him every day, eagerly listening to his stories of the past, and his life and all the experiences he had.  I didn’t understand death at the time, but perhaps in the back of my mind I knew our time together was going to be cut short, and I tried to spend all the time with him I could.  Gramp smoked Winston cigarettes, and was rarely without one lit. He quit smoking in the house in the 1970’s so spent most of his time in the garage, where he could smoke, drinking Bellows Reserve whiskey and ginger ale out of Dixie cups.  I can still remember exactly how that garage smelled, the combination of whiskey, cigarette and wood  smoke, chain saws, and deer hides all combined over the years to create a sort of sweet lingering smell.  Gramp’s garage wasn’t neat, but it wasn’t messy either and he always knew where everything was.  There was a woodstove in the corner, chairs for people to sit, tools, chainsaws, traps hanging from the rafters, guns, whiskey on the bench below a sign that said “Harry’s private bar; open 24 hours“, a gambrel for butchering deer and a sheet to put over the window if said deer was shot illegally.  Centerfolds from Playboy magazine hung on the walls as did the names and dates of his friends who had passed.  In those days in Maine drinking during the day was an accepted practice, and the estate caretakers and gardeners would often congregate at Gramps garage for a drink at 9 am which was morning break.  I would sit with them, a child some 60 years their junior and listen to all their stories, taking everything in.  Ted Donnell, Clyde Carter, David Hyde, Tony Hamor, Elmer Green, Hap Haskell, Waldo Damon, Donald Bryant, Ralph Young, and Hughie Wright were part of the crew that would visit his garage.  As I sit here today I can still hear and see them in my mind.  Before 9 am Gramp would say he was having “apple juice” but after 9 he would  call it a snort.  Ralph Young used to throw his “nips” bottles in the woods on the side of driveway, and one day Gramp had enough of that and collected all of them and  threw them on Ralph’s lawn.   When Gramp and I sat alone together we would talk about everything under the sun, and I would ask him to tell hunting and fishing stories.  I remember once he told me he wasn’t afraid of dying and that he wanted to try one of those marijuana cigarettes sometime before he did.  Gramp taught me how to safely handle and shoot a gun, and I would always sit there just waiting and waiting for him to ask me if I wanted to do some target practice.
I begged and pleaded for him to take me hunting but I was never there during hunting season  in the fall, and over time the arthritis in his knees stopped him going too far in the woods so I never got to go with him,  instead he instilled the desire in me.     The town had a community post office, not rural delivery, and Gramp would get mail for some of the summer people and deliver it.  I would always ride with him and as he got older I would run into the post office for him where Dot the postmistress would hand me bundles of sorted mail and Gramp and I would go and deliver it.  Oftentimes there would be a 5 or 10 dollar bill waiting for me when I dropped off the mail in someone’s home and nothing was ever locked, I would just walk in and put the mail where I had been told to put it.  Gramp was also a  practical joker who loved to get a reaction out of people.  One morning long before the days of mandatory seat belt and helmet laws I literally rode “shotgun” sitting on top of the tool box in the back of his truck through town to get the mail holding a 12 gauge shotgun.   Gramp’s truck was a 1973 Chevy Scottsdale step side and had a standard shift with 3 gears on a column or 3 or three on the tree as it used to be called.  He taught me to drive that truck when I was 14, and would then often ask me to take him out for a ride to see if we could see any deer.   One day driving down to the village with Gramp in the passenger seat we met my mother walking up the sidewalk headed home after getting her mail.  We both swore at the same time, and took our time heading home where Mom was waiting to yell at the both of us for me driving.  Even the local minister wasn’t sacred, bragging one day that his potatoes were ready to be harvested before Gramps, we went to his garden by flashlight and dug a row of potatoes, replacing them with tennis balls and putting the plants back on top so it looked like nothing was wrong. Elmer, one of his friends that would come up for a drink, had a job cleaning the town green and beach.  Gramp wanted to have some fun with him so one night we bought a box  of condoms and a dozen eggs and filled all the condoms with egg whites and threw them around the town green. I could barely contain myself the next morning sitting in the garage waiting for Elmer to show up, a lean wiry man known for his temper, he burst through the door announcing that the damn kids in town had been down on the green fucking all night, which elicited a “you don’t say?” from Gramp.  Gramp also taught me to work, having me do odd jobs around the outside of his house.  I saved the earnings he gave me and bought a buck knife with them, which I still have and use.  Gramp put his initials on everything and he helped me etch my initials into that knife.
The phone call came just a few days shy of my 17th birthday at about 10 o’clock on a February night, and we traveled to Maine for the funeral.  I had lost my best friend and mentor, and looking at him there took a large piece of me away with him.  I remember walking up to my room once we got back to CT and staring for a long time at the present that had arrived in the mail from him while we had been gone, looking at my name and address in Gramps shaky handwriting thinking about how it must have been one of the last things he did, and struggling with all the feelings that were coursing through me.  Finally I opened it with shaking hands and tears dropping loudly on the box  washing out the felt tip writing.  It was a wool mackinaw just like the one he used to wear.  I tried it on and looked at myself in the mirror, sliding my hands in the pockets to find each one had a $20 bill in it.  It was the epitome of what my grandfather was, a wonderful and generous man.  I wore that jacket on all my adventures afield, until it was threadbare, and then I wore it a few more years.  I went to college the year after my grandfather died, in Maine, and afterwards moved to the town on the coast where gramp lived.  I self taught myself to garden, hunt, and eventually even trap.   I shot my first deer in 1997 with Gramps favorite gun, after asking for his help with the hunt.  Upon thanking the deer for its life I saved the empty shell and buried it at gramps grave.  Over the years of trial and error I have become an accomplished woodsman in my own right, and my friends are often surprised to learn I am originally from out of state.  Standing on the ice that winter morning on the beaver flowage I had the epiphany wash over me that Gramp would have been proud of who I am, and I wish I could have shared some time in the woods with him. But I carry his memory with me, so he has shared all of my experiences over the years, and I’ll be able to tell my stories along side his stories someday to a saucer eyed grandchild.

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