Archive for May, 2011

The Passadumkeag River

The Lovely Rivers And Lakes Of Maine
by George B.Wallis

O, The lovely rivers and Lakes of Maine!
I am charmed with their names, as my song will explain;
Aboriginal muses  inspire my strain,
While I sing the bright rivers and lakes of  Maine-
From Cupsuptic to Cheputmatticook
From Sagadahock to Pohenegamook-
‘gamook, ‘gamook, Pohenegamook,
From Sagadahock to Pohenegamook.
For light serenading the “Blue Moselle”,
“Bonnie Doon” and “Sweet Avon” may do  very well;
But the rivers of Maine, in their wild solitudes,
Bring a  thunderous sound from the depth of the woods:

The Aroostook and  Chimmenticook,
The Chimpanaoc and Chinquassabamtook-
‘bamtook, ‘bamtook,  Chinquassabamtook,
The Chimpassoc and Chinquassabamtook,
Behold how they  sparkle and flash in the sun!
The Mattewamkeag and the Mussungun;
The kingly Penobscot, the wild Woolastook,
Kennebec, Kennebago and Sebasticook;
The pretty Presumpscut and gay Tulanbic;
The Ess’quilsagook and little  Schoodic-
Schoodic, Schoodic; The little Schoodic;
The Ess’quilsagook  and little Schoodic.

Yes, Yes, I prefer the bright rivers of  Maine,
To the Rhine or the Rhone or the Saone or the Seine;
These may do  for the Cockney, but give me some nook,
On the Ammonoosuc or the  Wytopadiook.
On the Umsaskis or the Ripogenis,
The Ripogenis or the  Piscataquis-
‘aguis, ‘aguis,
The Piscataguis. “Away down South,” the  Cherokee
Has named his river the Tennessee,
The Chattahoochee and the  Ocmulgee,
The Congaree and the Ohoopee;
But what are they, or the  Frenchy Detroit,

To the Passadumkeag or the Wassatoquoit-
‘toquoit, ‘toquoit, The Wassatoquoit,
To the Passadumkeag or the  Wassatoquoit-
Then turn to the beautiful lakes of Maine
To the Sage of  Auburn be given the strain,
The statesman whose genius and bright fancy,  makes
The earth’s highest glories to shine in its lakes;
What lakes out  of Maine can we place in the book
With the Matagomon and the Pangokomook
”ommok, ‘ommok, The Pangokomook,
With the Matagomon and the  Pangokomook?
Lake Leman, or Como, what care I for them,

When  Maine has the Moosehead and Pangokwahem,
And, sweet as the dews in the  violet’s kiss,
Wallahgosqueqamook and Telesimis;
And when I can share in  the fisherman’s bunk
On the Moosetuckmaguntic or Mol’tunkamunk?
And  Maine has the Eagle Lakes, Cheppawagan,

And the little Sepic and the little  Scapan,
The spreading Sebago, the Congomgomoc,
The Milliemet and  Motesoinloc,
Caribou and the fair Anmonjenegamook,
Oquassaac and rare  Wetokenebacook-
‘acook, ‘accook

Oquassac and rare  Wetokenebacook.
And there are the Pokeshine and Patquongomis;
And there  is the pretty Coscomgonnosis,
The Pemadumook and the old Chesuncook,
Sepois and Mooseleuk; and take care not to miss
The Umbazookskus or the  Sysladobsis.
‘dobsis, ‘dobsis, The Sysladobsis.

O, Give me the rivers  and lakes of Maine
In her mountains or forests or fields of grain,
In  the depth of the shade or the blaze of the sun,
The lakes of Schoodic and  the Basconegun,
And the dear Waubasoos and the clear Aquessuc,
The  Cosbosecontic and Millenkikuk-
‘kikuk, ‘kikuk, The Millenkikuk,
The  Cosbosecontic and Millenkikuk!

Transcribed by Janice  Farnsworth

The rivers of Maine, in their wild solitudes, bring a thunderous sound from the depth of the woods.”     The places of the wild solitudes shrink every year yet  the Passadumkeag and the other rivers of  Maine still have them.  You can still canoe around a corner on a misty morning, gliding by the steaming banks to surprise a moose, or a bear, or have your fishing line tighten with the bite of a wild brook trout.

Before the highways and byways of our time, waterways were used for travel, and America’s history is full of tales of the rivers used for travel and trade.

When you look at a topographic map of Maine, you can begin to easily pick out the routes that our forebears used to travel from one place to another. The Passadumkeag River’s translation to the native tongue means above the gravel bar, and is named for a distinct gravel bar in the Penobscot River. That gravel bar is an old river highway exit sign when traveling upstream. The Passadumkeag River was a very important route as it allowed for easterly travel. The Native American language also incorporates an easy way for you to tell whether or not the river is hard or easy to paddle by the name itself. If the river is relatively easy to paddle, it has a “keag” at the end – such as Passadumkeag, Mattawamkeag, and Kenduskeag. If the river is hard to paddle it has a “hunk” at the end such as Nesowadnehunk, Madunkehunk, and O’zwazo-ge-hunk streams. Interestingly the translation of O’zwazo-ge-hunk is “when they come by here they wade their canoes”. So, the Native American names for rivers and lakes in Maine are not named randomly – they all have a specific meaning, worth looking up if you can before attempting a first paddle. My experience with the Passadumkeag begins where the entrance of Cold Stream enters the river a few miles up from Route 2. The river is flat, calm, and deep here and has a marshy/boggy area that extends some distance on either side. Paddling up Cold Stream is fun as well, winding through the marsh. I have yet to paddle down, but someday I want to paddle the length of the stream from Cold Stream Pond down to the Passadumkeag, I think it would be a great paddle.

Last year while slowly paddling and trolling upriver there was quite a disturbance on the bank to my right. I watched for a bit as the commotion continued, and got a glimpse of what I thought was an otter. I whistled and gave a little call out, and shortly a mother otter appeared, steaming across the water with two babies rapidly following her right towards the canoe! They got close enough for me to get a little nervous and she alternated between whistling and hissing at us. She and the young would swim far out, and then back again to the boat, vocalizing all the while. I pulled up my line, and when she would go under, I would give chase, stopping when she came up. We then alternated, and I would paddle away fast with her giving chase. Finally they tired of the fun and swam off downriver in search of other adventures. Otters are such curious creatures – their curiousity is quite similar , in my opinion, to that of a cat, if not more so. My friend Peter once saw one playing with a stray balloon on a stream in the middle of nowhere.

I’ve also seen some large moose roaming the banks in the summer time, and found it interesting that back in the day the Passadumkeag “had some of the best hunting in Maine.” It certainly is teeming with wildlife.

I learned something new when I was looking at things to write about the Passadumkeag. On the knoll that overlooks the Passadumkeag and Cold Stream confluence there is a small farm (Hathaway Farm) and there is also an old cemetery there, references for the cemetery and history of the region can be found here, here, and here.  Take the time to scroll down and through the last link – it’s a good read.

 

And interestingly in reading about the cemetery there on the hill they talk about the “Red Paint People”, a mystery in and of itself. The Red Paint People flourished between 3,000 and 10,000 BC and were found from Labrador to New York on the coasts and rivers. For their time, they had elaborate burial ceremonies and used Red Ochre to paint shrouds and gravesites. Olamon stream, which is very close to the Passadumkeag and also flows into the mighty Penobscot translates to “Red Paint” and is known for its naturally occurring Red Ochre. They used tools, but did not have pottery or metal. They fished the Passadumkeag before the pyramids of Egypt were even built. They are somewhat of a mystery because they seem to have disappeared without much of a trace, other than their elaborate burial ceremonies and leaving lots of speculation as to what happened.

I find it very fascinating that a cemetery used by the Red Paint people is overlooking my little piece of the Passadumkeag River where I love to go fishing, and apparently where people have loved to go fishing since 10,000 BC. Now that’s transcending history!

The Rhyme of a Remittance Man

Egypt Stream

A somewhat obscure, but decent poem written by Robert Service .  The text of the poem is below.

 

 

There’s a four-pronged buck a-swinging in the shadow of my cabin,
And it roamed the velvet valley till to-day;
But I tracked it by the river, and I trailed it in the cover,
And I killed it on the mountain miles away.
Now I’ve had my lazy supper, and the level sun is gleaming
On the water where the silver salmon play;
And I light my little corn-cob, and I linger, softly dreaming,
In the twilight, of a land that’s far away.

Far away, so faint and far, is flaming London, fevered Paris,
That I fancy I have gained another star;
Far away the din and hurry, far away the sin and worry,
Far away — God knows they cannot be too far.
Gilded galley-slaves of Mammon — how my purse-proud brothers taunt me!
I might have been as well-to-do as they
Had I clutched like them my chances, learned their wisdom, crushed my fancies,
Starved my soul and gone to business every day.

Well, the cherry bends with blossom and the vivid grass is springing,
And the star-like lily nestles in the green;
And the frogs their joys are singing, and my heart in tune is ringing,
And it doesn’t matter what I might have been.
While above the scented pine-gloom, piling heights of golden glory,
The sun-god paints his canvas in the west,
I can couch me deep in clover, I can listen to the story
Of the lazy, lapping water — it is best.

While the trout leaps in the river, and the blue grouse thrills the cover,
And the frozen snow betrays the panther’s track,
And the robin greets the dayspring with the rapture of a lover,
I am happy, and I’ll nevermore go back.
For I know I’d just be longing for the little old log cabin,
With the morning-glory clinging to the door,
Till I loathed the city places, cursed the care on all the faces,
Turned my back on lazar London evermore.

So send me far from Lombard Street, and write me down a failure;
Put a little in my purse and leave me free.
Say: “He turned from Fortune’s offering to follow up a pale lure,
He is one of us no longer — let him be.”
I am one of you no longer; by the trails my feet have broken,
The dizzy peaks I’ve scaled, the camp-fire’s glow;
By the lonely seas I’ve sailed in — yea, the final word is spoken,
I am signed and sealed to nature. Be it so.

First Lobster of the Year – Fresh from Bar Harbor

Maine Lobster

Spent the weekend at camp having the first lobster of the season, fresh from the waters of Bar Harbor – with steamers as an appetizer after cutting down a few trees to try and get the firewood pile growing again.   We’ve been putting the clam shells in front of the camp – I wonder how many it will take to have a clamshell path out there.  Despite being May 21 there is still quite a chill in the air this year, and we had to have a small woodfire in the stove going to be comfortable through the night.  I got up at 4 to get the fire going again, and from bed I can watch the smoke rising from the chimney in the early morning light, and the glow from the fire reflecting on the walls.  I couldn’t get back to sleep so I made coffee and sat on the porch listening to the woods waking up.  I was excited to hear a partridge (ruffed grouse)  who was evidently feeling good and doing some early morning drumming.  If you’ve never heard a partridge drumming, this is what they sound like;

As evening was encroaching and the wind died down for the night, I also got to hear my favorite bird, the hermit thrush.  There is something comforting about their song to me, I guess it’s because I only seem to hear them when I’m near or in the woods.  Here is what they sounds like;

As we were leaving, a large shadow above me caught my eye, and I instinctively ducked as a pileated woodpecker landed in a tree not three feet from me, at eye level.   I’ve never been that close to one before, they are a remarkable bird, and quite big, especially up close and personal like that…..here is what they look like;

I love that something interesting and special happens ever time I’m in the woods, it makes it unique and special each time I go.

The Story of Hugh Glass

 

Buried in the annals of American history is the amazing survival story of Hugh Glass.   For me, it ranks up in the top ten alongside stories like that of Ernest Shackleton,Touching the Void,and Beck Weathers.   Interestingly though  is that it doesn’t seem to be as famous as the other death defying  against all odds survival stories out there.

Not much is known about the early life of Hugh and is awash in lots of speculation.  Most accounts of his early life agree that he was born in Pennsylvania, sometime around 1783.  As a young man working as a seaman he was captured by the pirate Jean Lafitte and was forced into piracy, escaping by swimming to shore in 1818 near Galveston Texas.  He managed to avoid the hostile Karankawa Indians, but was finally captured by the Pawnee. They “adopted” him and taught him about living in the wilderness.

William Ashley of the newly formed Rocky Mountain Fur Company placed an ad looking for mountain men to journey up the Missouri River in the hope of establishing fur trade routes, and Hugh was one of the party in that venture .   One morning as Hugh was picking berries away from the main party he surprised a female grizzly bear with cubs, and was severely attacked.  He managed to fire point blank with his Hawken rifle, but the shot did not kill the bear and he had to repeatedly stab it with his knife as it continued to attack him.  Having finally killed the bear, Hugh lay there dying himself.  He had massive wounds and was bleeding profusely.  Some accounts have his ribs exposed in places, and his scalp mostly removed by the vicious attack.  The men sewed him up as best they could, but were convinced that he would succumb to his wounds within a day or two.  Jim Bridger and John Fitzgerald were assigned to stay with him until he died so they could give him a decent burial.   There was one problem however – Hugh wouldn’t die.  Fitzgerald became increasing stressed that hostile Indians would find them and after five days of waiting by the comatose Hugh, convinced Bridger that they had to leave immediately.   Convinced Hugh would die they took all of his possessions – rifle, powder, knife, and supplies.  Everything a man would need to survive.  Then, they left him beside a shallow dug grave. Hugh continued to lie in a coma for an unknown time period – but eventually he came to and upon realizing he had been abandoned for dead, he got really angry – and vowed to kill the two men that had left him.  He set his own broken leg, and began crawling to Fort Kiowa which was some 200 miles distant.  200 MILES.  He crawled near water as much as possible so that he could drink – ate berries, roots, and at one point feasted on fresh buffalo calf that had been killed by wolves.  Eventually regaining some of his strength he was able to with the aid of a crutch, get up to a standing position.   Maggots ate the diseased flesh off of his back, and he could feel them crawling there.

Accounts at this point differ and are various – but I believe this one is the true one, and the one that makes the most rational sense.

A party of traveling Sioux found him, and nursed him back to health, and with their assistance, he was able to return to Fort Kiowa on Oct 8 1823 and re-outfit himself on credit.  Bridger and Fitzgerald were not at the Fort at that time, he heard they were at Fort Henry.   Hugh departed on foot for Fort Henry, a month long journey, with the intention of killing Bridger and Fitzgerald.  He arrived  at the end of December in the evening  – walked into the Fort announcing himself as Hugh Glass and that he was there to kill Bridger and Fitzgerald.  Fitzgerald was not there at the time, but Bridger was, and the color drained from his face as he realized that it was indeed Hugh Glass, a man he had left for dead, standing before him.  He began apologizing profusely and explained that it was Fitzgerald that had convinced him to leave Hugh.  Hugh believed the account and forgave him.

After leaving Fort Henry Hugh learned that Fitzgerald had joined the Army and was stationed at Fort Atkinson.   Upon his arrival and announcing that he was there to kill Fitzgerald, the Captain at the Fort that he would see Hugh arrested and hanged if that happened.  After being assured that Hugh would not kill Fitzgerald, the Captain arranged a meeting between the two men, where purportedly Hugh demanded his gun back and warned Fitzgerald never to leave the Army.

Glass returned to the Rocky Mountains to trap and was once again wounded in 1825 by a Shoshone arrow, and transported 700 miles via river to get the arrowhead removed.  He was presumed killed in 1833 by the Arikara – Johnson Gardner captured several of the Arikara that were in possession of Hugh’s equipment, and he was never heard from again.

There is a monument for Hugh Glass in South Dakota, which you can see here.

An amazing story of life and survival, fit for the legends of history.   I find it ironic that Jim Bridger went on to be famous and the story of Hugh Glass is seemingly buried in history.  He was, in all senses of the phrase, a true American Bad Ass.

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Tales of An Empty Cabin

Tu es mon compagnon de voyage!
Je veux mourir dans mon canot
Sur le tombeau, près du rivage,
Vous renverserez mon canot!

When I must leave the great river
O bury me close to its wave
And let my canoe and my paddle
Be the only mark over my grave.

Translated by Oliver Call.

 

I can’t recall for sure where I first came across the book Tales of an Empty Cabin, written by Grey Owl. It was possibly just a random book search. I’m glad I did though, because it is a remarkable book, and extremely well written. Grey Owl’s entire life was a bit of an enigma. The world first heard of him through his writing, and then eventually speeches that he was asked to give. To the world he presented himself as a Native American who had an Apache mother and moved to Canada to join the Ojibwa and first was a wilderness fur trapper, who then turned conservationist. His writing is very pervasive, romantic, and tugs at the heartstrings. For me the pendulum swung the other way – I started out as a conservationist, swung to a trapper, and now things are evening out between the two. Time will tell where that ends up for me.  If you choose to read the book, keep in mind the time frame that it was written. In the early 1900’s beaver populations were drastically reduced due to exploitation. With the benefit of conservation laws, seasons, and limits, the beaver population is back with a vengeance. Here in Maine current laws are very liberal for the taking of beaver as the state has a large population. I believe that the ambivalence lies within all who take to the woods to some degree, and the pendulum can swing fast or slow in the process. Certainly reading Grey Owls account of listening to the mate of the beaver they had shot calling out through the night for its mate is very emotional.   In the story one of the people in the traveling party kills a beaver, and during the night they hear it’s mate calling out for it.  The member of the party sleeping next to Grey Owl asks what that noise is, and Grey Owl dismisses it to him as nothing.  But he knows what it is.

Trappers understand animals and their habits more than anybody, and it’s often hard to explain the conundrum of being able to empathize and befriend a creature of the wild whilst running a trapline for another. I guess I can empathize somewhat more with the coyote with mange, or the beaver with mallocclusion. Beaver, like other rodents have teeth that continuously grow, and they need to gnaw to keep them sharp, and the correct length. Mallocclusion is when one becomes out of alignment, or grows past the point where the beaver can gnaw it back, and the creature is left unable to eat, and sometimes the teeth grow long enough to puncture the skull. I’ve seen it.

My favorite story in the book is The Tree. The author describes in great detail the very long life of a tree, from when a squirrel accidentally dropped a nut on the ground, to the deer browsing it’s neighbors, the rabbit eating its bark, and the moose using it for sparring practice. It goes on to describe the native American that visited it, the white man that explored it, and the road coming through that killed it. It is a fantastic story that puts a lot of life and time into perspective for me.

Grey Owl is most famous for his cabin at Ajaawan Lake, where a beaver house was incorporated into the cabin, and he was made Honorary Warden for the protection of the beaver colony. The story is in the book, and is a well regaled account of the daily activities of the beaver, who were allowed to roam the cabin. It is also probably the first case study of its kind on beaver behavior. I love the stories of the beaver tetter-tottering around the cabin on their rear legs carrying mud for the lodge, of how the male would become aggressive and jealous of the author when the female would come into heat, and the stories of chairs and other woodwork being eaten and chewed in the authors absence. It must have been some interesting times, and it is great to be able to share them in the book.

Grey Owl never made it to his 50th birthday. For someone that passed so young, he had an incredible life. After his death, the enigma of his life was discovered. He was born in England in 1888, and had no Native American ties at all,  a fraud that dented the conservation movement he had created, but certainly did not change what he did, or his experiences.  It’s just who he wanted to be, and what he became.

Here is a video of Grey Owl, his cabin, and the beavers – I wish I could hear the real sounds in the video, the narration is a little cheesy, but the video makes up for it -

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And a short video of his cabin and the lake;

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And apparently I missed the memo when the movie came out – but one did – I’ll be watching it soon – here is the trailer:

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The Way Life Should Be

 

Having a cocktail sitting on the porch in front of an open fire, with a snowshoe hare pausing in it’s nightly travels to stare for a second.  Listening  to the rain pattering on the roof during the night, with a small warming fire in the woodstove.  Hearing the sounds of the forests without the clamor of other people – the drops of rain dripping from the trees onto the forest floor.   A bird in the hemlock singing in the morning despite the dreary weather.   Going to the small store down the road for breakfast and being asked if I want my bacon soft or crunchy, and whether or not I want onions in my home fries hon.  Having more food served than I can eat for less than six bucks.  Overhearing the owner offer someone that had some bad luck  breakfast on the house, and intentionally paying that forward by leaving a hefty tip for my more than I could eat breakfast eliciting a “God Bless you Dear”.  Stepping outside for a pee at two in the morning to realize again that when there is no man-made light for miles, it never really gets dark.  Even in  the rain I could see some of my shadowy surroundings.  Moments to live for, and the way life should be.

 

A Beast Caged in the Heart of the City

I long to awake in the morning, and put on an old flannel shirt and corduroy pants that are mended and moccasins covered with dirt – I care not a cuss where the place is, nor how far away it may be, so long as its up in the open where I can unleash and be free.

Anon 1947

I remember a line in a book I was reading years ago that said you could blindfold someone and put them on the tarmac in any city, and all they would be able to tell you is where they weren’t.   If you think about that for a minute you’ll realize it’s true.  Everything looks the same, there is no uniqueness or individuality.   As much as people complain (yet still go) to Wal Mart, as Americans we’re essentially living in one to some extent.

It always surprised me at the University of Maine when a student from an urban area of a different state would exclaim that there was nothing to do here.  It’s true that you can’t go hit a few comedy clubs at 11pm if you want, and there is a small part of me that misses that too.  But had I gone to college in an urban setting I would have said there is nothing to do here too.  We had a great time in college – we hunted, fished, explored, snowmobiled, and canoed.  I’ll always remember cutting classes on the first day of partridge season to go hunting in the warm October sun, and hanging out in the (now defunct) Rams Horn and Oronoka listening to live music in an intimate atmosphere.

Kids growing up these days aren’t exposed to the “other “ side of life that much anymore, and it wanes with each passing year.  As Aldo Leopold aptly said – “There are two spiritual dangers in not owning a farm.  One is supposing that food comes from the grocery store, and the other is that heat comes from the furnace.”  I would propose that his quote has more meaning today than ever.   With the unstable economies around the world, food prices being jacked up out of site because our nation’s corn is being converted to ethanol, and fuel prices never going back to the levels they were before, I think it behooves all of us to revisit the skills of our past.  There is a fantastic book called “back to basics” that pretty much has everything in it you would ever need to know on how to take care of yourself and become independent again.

Land in rural areas of this country is still cheap to buy.   When I built my cabin I had very rudimentary carpentry skills and yet with some determination was able to clear and stump a spot, cut, peel, and lug out of the woods each cedar log, and build it from scratch using hand tools.    Imagine no mortgage, no utility bill, and a small food bill.  Imagine the satisfaction of being independent, of not being tied to the latest woes of the economy.  Imagine no longer being a beast caged in the heart of the city.

Here is a video of camp going up.  I started harvesting the wood in 2003 and 2004.  In the fall of 2004 the cement piers went in – 2005 it got build, and in early 2006 I finished the inside.

 

The Phoebe

The phoebe is back again this year, as she has since the year after the cabin was built.  The first year she had a nest up under the eaves near the back of the cabin, but the next year she moved to the eaves of the porch and she has been there since, building up the nest a little more every year.

We try not to disturb her to much, but it’s a tad hard when she is living just above the door.  Lying there in the morning I can hear her fly away from the nest and I can tell when she’s come back to the nest as her young vocalize to be fed.

She’s never far away,  and sometimes will scold us a little from a nearby tree when we are sitting on the porch.  It must not bother her too much though, because she continues to come back year after year.  Of course, I have no way of knowing that it’s the same exact bird, but I would like to think that it is.  Perhaps one of these years the nest will stay empty and I will know.  I kind of like having her around, because phoebe’s eat insects, and in the spring there certainly are plenty around for her to eat.

It’s fascinating to think that she has migrated from her winter habitat in the southernmost US and Central America.  Flying all that way to return to her nest at our cabin, and then returning south in the fall.  It actually doesn’t take them very long at all to grow up and leave the nest, they do make a bit of a mess on the porch – but it’s pretty easy to clean up.  I’m glad she’s back.

I’m Scared of it All – Robert Service

I want you to hear the rush of wind.  The whisper of legends and stories untold. I want you to know the ancient one, this land, whose voice is likened to a thousand spirits chanting.

Bernadette Norwegian

“Tales of Sunkhaze”

A recent trip through a city and driving in traffic reminded me (I even recited some of it I think)  of this poem, another one of my favorites by Robert Service.  For any fans of the poem for the recitation I left off the “forming good habits” last line – for me I just think it sounds better to have it end with “Goodbye for its safer up there.”   The text of the poem is below.

I’m scared of it all, God’s truth! so I am;
It’s too big and brutal for me.
My nerve’s on the raw and I don’t give a damn
For all the “hoorah” that I see.
I’m pinned between subway and overhead train,
Where automobillies swoop down:
Oh, I want to go back to the timber again –
I’m scared of the terrible town.

I want to go back to my lean, ashen plains;
My rivers that flash into foam;
My ultimate valleys where solitude reigns;
My trail from Fort Churchill to Nome.
My forests packed full of mysterious gloom,
My ice-fields agrind and aglare:
The city is deadfalled with danger and doom –
I know that I’m safer up there.

I watch the wan faces that flash in the street;
All kinds and all classes I see.
Yet never a one in the million I meet,
Has the smile of a comrade for me.
Just jaded and panting like dogs in a pack;
Just tensed and intent on the goal:
O God! but I’m lonesome — I wish I was back,
Up there in the land of the Pole.

I wish I was back on the Hunger Plateaus,
And seeking the lost caribou;
I wish I was up where the Coppermine flows
To the kick of my little canoe.
I’d like to be far on some weariful shore,
In the Land of the Blizzard and Bear;
Oh, I wish I was snug in the Arctic once more,
For I know I am safer up there!

I prowl in the canyons of dismal unrest;
I cringe — I’m so weak and so small.
I can’t get my bearings, I’m crushed and oppressed
With the haste and the waste of it all.
The slaves and the madman, the lust and the sweat,
The fear in the faces I see;
The getting, the spending, the fever, the fret –
It’s too bleeding cruel for me.

I feel it’s all wrong, but I can’t tell you why –
The palace, the hovel next door;
The insolent towers that sprawl to the sky,
The crush and the rush and the roar.
I’m trapped like a fox and I fear for my pelt;
I cower in the crash and the glare;
Oh, I want to be back in the avalanche belt,
For I know that it’s safer up there!

I’m scared of it all: Oh, afar I can hear
The voice of my solitudes call!
We’re nothing but brute with a little veneer,
And nature is best after all.
There’s tumult and terror abroad in the street;
There’s menace and doom in the air;
I’ve got to get back to my thousand-mile beat;
The trail where the cougar and silver-tip meet;
The snows and the camp-fire, with wolves at my feet;
Good-bye, for it’s safer up there.

To be forming good habits up there;
To be starving on rabbits up there;
In your hunger and woe,
Though it’s sixty below,
Oh, I know that it’s safer up there!

written by Robert Service

Self Reliant Living,Canoeing,Musing, and Surviving in Maine. Huzza Huzza! Pour le pays Sauvage!!! Follow us Twiter YouTube RSS