Posts Tagged ‘beautiful place’

Tales of An Empty Cabin

Tu es mon compagnon de voyage!
Je veux mourir dans mon canot
Sur le tombeau, près du rivage,
Vous renverserez mon canot!

When I must leave the great river
O bury me close to its wave
And let my canoe and my paddle
Be the only mark over my grave.

Translated by Oliver Call.

 

I can’t recall for sure where I first came across the book Tales of an Empty Cabin, written by Grey Owl. It was possibly just a random book search. I’m glad I did though, because it is a remarkable book, and extremely well written. Grey Owl’s entire life was a bit of an enigma. The world first heard of him through his writing, and then eventually speeches that he was asked to give. To the world he presented himself as a Native American who had an Apache mother and moved to Canada to join the Ojibwa and first was a wilderness fur trapper, who then turned conservationist. His writing is very pervasive, romantic, and tugs at the heartstrings. For me the pendulum swung the other way – I started out as a conservationist, swung to a trapper, and now things are evening out between the two. Time will tell where that ends up for me.  If you choose to read the book, keep in mind the time frame that it was written. In the early 1900’s beaver populations were drastically reduced due to exploitation. With the benefit of conservation laws, seasons, and limits, the beaver population is back with a vengeance. Here in Maine current laws are very liberal for the taking of beaver as the state has a large population. I believe that the ambivalence lies within all who take to the woods to some degree, and the pendulum can swing fast or slow in the process. Certainly reading Grey Owls account of listening to the mate of the beaver they had shot calling out through the night for its mate is very emotional.   In the story one of the people in the traveling party kills a beaver, and during the night they hear it’s mate calling out for it.  The member of the party sleeping next to Grey Owl asks what that noise is, and Grey Owl dismisses it to him as nothing.  But he knows what it is.

Trappers understand animals and their habits more than anybody, and it’s often hard to explain the conundrum of being able to empathize and befriend a creature of the wild whilst running a trapline for another. I guess I can empathize somewhat more with the coyote with mange, or the beaver with mallocclusion. Beaver, like other rodents have teeth that continuously grow, and they need to gnaw to keep them sharp, and the correct length. Mallocclusion is when one becomes out of alignment, or grows past the point where the beaver can gnaw it back, and the creature is left unable to eat, and sometimes the teeth grow long enough to puncture the skull. I’ve seen it.

My favorite story in the book is The Tree. The author describes in great detail the very long life of a tree, from when a squirrel accidentally dropped a nut on the ground, to the deer browsing it’s neighbors, the rabbit eating its bark, and the moose using it for sparring practice. It goes on to describe the native American that visited it, the white man that explored it, and the road coming through that killed it. It is a fantastic story that puts a lot of life and time into perspective for me.

Grey Owl is most famous for his cabin at Ajaawan Lake, where a beaver house was incorporated into the cabin, and he was made Honorary Warden for the protection of the beaver colony. The story is in the book, and is a well regaled account of the daily activities of the beaver, who were allowed to roam the cabin. It is also probably the first case study of its kind on beaver behavior. I love the stories of the beaver tetter-tottering around the cabin on their rear legs carrying mud for the lodge, of how the male would become aggressive and jealous of the author when the female would come into heat, and the stories of chairs and other woodwork being eaten and chewed in the authors absence. It must have been some interesting times, and it is great to be able to share them in the book.

Grey Owl never made it to his 50th birthday. For someone that passed so young, he had an incredible life. After his death, the enigma of his life was discovered. He was born in England in 1888, and had no Native American ties at all,  a fraud that dented the conservation movement he had created, but certainly did not change what he did, or his experiences.  It’s just who he wanted to be, and what he became.

Here is a video of Grey Owl, his cabin, and the beavers – I wish I could hear the real sounds in the video, the narration is a little cheesy, but the video makes up for it -

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And a short video of his cabin and the lake;

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And apparently I missed the memo when the movie came out – but one did – I’ll be watching it soon – here is the trailer:

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A Beast Caged in the Heart of the City

I long to awake in the morning, and put on an old flannel shirt and corduroy pants that are mended and moccasins covered with dirt – I care not a cuss where the place is, nor how far away it may be, so long as its up in the open where I can unleash and be free.

Anon 1947

I remember a line in a book I was reading years ago that said you could blindfold someone and put them on the tarmac in any city, and all they would be able to tell you is where they weren’t.   If you think about that for a minute you’ll realize it’s true.  Everything looks the same, there is no uniqueness or individuality.   As much as people complain (yet still go) to Wal Mart, as Americans we’re essentially living in one to some extent.

It always surprised me at the University of Maine when a student from an urban area of a different state would exclaim that there was nothing to do here.  It’s true that you can’t go hit a few comedy clubs at 11pm if you want, and there is a small part of me that misses that too.  But had I gone to college in an urban setting I would have said there is nothing to do here too.  We had a great time in college – we hunted, fished, explored, snowmobiled, and canoed.  I’ll always remember cutting classes on the first day of partridge season to go hunting in the warm October sun, and hanging out in the (now defunct) Rams Horn and Oronoka listening to live music in an intimate atmosphere.

Kids growing up these days aren’t exposed to the “other “ side of life that much anymore, and it wanes with each passing year.  As Aldo Leopold aptly said – “There are two spiritual dangers in not owning a farm.  One is supposing that food comes from the grocery store, and the other is that heat comes from the furnace.”  I would propose that his quote has more meaning today than ever.   With the unstable economies around the world, food prices being jacked up out of site because our nation’s corn is being converted to ethanol, and fuel prices never going back to the levels they were before, I think it behooves all of us to revisit the skills of our past.  There is a fantastic book called “back to basics” that pretty much has everything in it you would ever need to know on how to take care of yourself and become independent again.

Land in rural areas of this country is still cheap to buy.   When I built my cabin I had very rudimentary carpentry skills and yet with some determination was able to clear and stump a spot, cut, peel, and lug out of the woods each cedar log, and build it from scratch using hand tools.    Imagine no mortgage, no utility bill, and a small food bill.  Imagine the satisfaction of being independent, of not being tied to the latest woes of the economy.  Imagine no longer being a beast caged in the heart of the city.

Here is a video of camp going up.  I started harvesting the wood in 2003 and 2004.  In the fall of 2004 the cement piers went in – 2005 it got build, and in early 2006 I finished the inside.

 

Allagash Lake


It took me three attempts in a five year period to finally reach this beautiful place, one of Maine’s most remote waters, Allagash Lake.  The lake is accessible only via a long hike in from Johnson Pond, or by canoe, and there are no internal combustion engines allowed on the lake.  To access the lake by canoe is more involved than it may sound. One way is to paddle all of Chamberlain Lake (an Allagash River headwater), a distance of about 16 miles, and then pole 6 miles UP Allagash Stream to the eastern end of Allagash Lake.   It is also possible to drive to a put in on Allagash Stream and paddle downstream to the western end of the lake.  Both methods involve their own set of hardships.  Another way I have read about to get in is via a carry trail coming in to the south end of the lake, which I never attempted to find, nor have I found any accounts of anyone that has actually entered the lake this way.  Allagash Lake covers 4,360 acres and spans 3 and a half miles, averaging 35 feet deep, it’s deepest being 89 feet.  It is renowned for it’s brook trout fishing. My first attempt to visit this lake was during a trip down the Allagash River.  In the deadwater that signifies the transition from lake to stream at the northwestern end of Chamberlain Lake, we glided by the derelict Umbazookus railroad trestle, with it’s twisted rails decending into the tannin colored water.  The canoe was laden with a weeks worth of provisions for the river, and the stream was swollen with three inches of thunderstorm rain from two nights previous.  The situation quickly became unmanageable and went from bad to worse.  I paddled and then fashioned a makeshift pole, and then hopped in the chest deep stream and pulled the canoe upstream before discretion became the better part of valor and I turned around.  Resting as the current took  it’s hold on us I noticed the beauty of the fir and spruce covered banks of this narrow stream, and the peaceful feeling of how remote this was.  I instantly vowed a return trip, and to make it a destination instead of a side trip.  After poring over maps, a year or so later I attempted the trip again, this time driving to the put in on Allagash Stream with the hope of  paddling down to the lake and returning back upstream, a distance of about three miles.  Due to the numerous logging roads a current and updated map is essential.  DeLorme map publishes  the Maine Atlas and Gazateer, which is a must have for this region.  Logging roads change constantly so use other landmarks such as streams when using a map to get to the put in on Allagash Stream.   Driving in this way had it’s own set of hardships, and I was very happy that I was in a 4 wheel drive vehicle.  There were numerous brook crossings and a beaver dam with a washed out culvert that had to be crossed as well.  I made it to the put in, there appeared to be enough water to float the canoe, and no shortage of black flies.  With the canoe packed, we headed downstream only to bottom out around the first bend.  We were able to walk the canoe for a while and ever the optimist I reassured myself by thinking surely around the next bend there will be enough water for us to float, but eventually were forced to turn back.  The return trip came in June of 2002, this time with my father who was a large part of my interest in canoeing and a fitting companion for a finally successful trip.  My main goal at the lake was the ice caves, which lie on the southwestern shore and take their name from the ice found in them year round. We arrived at the put in and loaded the canoe.  Our first trial was the clouds of black flies.  At one point I stuck my head in the truck to get my water shoes, and several minutes after closing the door the sun’s heat killed the black flies that had come in with me, which turned the dashboard black with their remains.   In all the years I have spent canoeing in Maine, I truthfully have never seen the black flies as bad as they were then, and I would have given my paycheck for a bug net.  The first bend, where I had bottomed out before floated us just fine.  I smelled success for a moment before the stream captured my full attention as we twisted and turned the canoe around the rocks and occasional spruce branch strainer.   On the way we noticed where turtles had crawled up onto a sandbar and deposited eggs.  The stream began with good current and as we neared the lake it got deeper and slowed down considerably.  We watched a huge trout zip under the canoe, headed upstream.  Rounding a bend the lake came into view – I had finally made it!  The first campsite was just past where the lake begins, and we waved to it’s occupants as we went by.  Maine fishing is legendary and Allagash Lake is renowned for it’s fishery.  I believe this lake is as good as it gets as far as the way “fishing used to be”.  The lake surface that day was smooth as glass which, as any person who has canoed a large Maine lake before would agree, is not the normal state of affairs.  So, without further ado, we hopped back in to the canoe after setting up camp for a little trolling.  Trolling by paddle is one of the best fishing techniques there is, because every stroke of the paddle varies the lure speed, and gives it a more natural appearance.  We fished for several minutes before my rod bent over, and the line began singing off the reel.  There we were on a lake that looked like a mirror, in the remote Maine wilderness, with a big fish on. For a moment I forgot the bugs in the excitement.  Several minutes later I landed a nice 17 inch brook trout.  We caught and landed several more fish in the 18 inch range before hunger brought us in off the water.  After an enjoyable dinner and evening, we went to bed amidst the chorus of loons. Early the next morning we had a quick breakfast and hit the lake again in search of brookies.  Someone was looking over us this trip, as my paddle made the only ripples across the surface for another day.  We explored the lake which is extremely beautiful and rugged.  After lunch, we went to the ice cave which had an easily visible path to it.  We made it in as far as I dared to go, which was a point where you would have to ease through a little crevice in the rocks, almost cervix like in appearance.  Upon getting back to camp I saw a timber-jack, a/k/a a canda jay.  Legend has it that these birds are deceased loggers that have come back to life and that it is good luck to feed them.  They are by nature very tame, and as I hadn’t seen one in many years, I fed it some crackers. There was a baby nearby in a tree, and it got some crackers as well, brought to it by it’s mother.  On the day we left, as we packed and took pictures of the sunrise, a bald eagle sat in a tree and watched us.  The trip upstream was much easier than I had anticipated, only taking us a couple of hours.  This trip was extremely rewarding, and the possibilities surrounding it, and other trips in the region are seemingly endless, all of it in fascinating country, both in history and scenery.

A great satellite image of Allagash Lake can be found  here.

Note: this is a portion of  a story I felt lucky to get published in the now defunct Paddle and Portage magazine Summer 2003.  I wish it was still in print, it was a great magazine.

 




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