Posts Tagged ‘Mainer’

OKPIK Maine High Adventure

OKPIK

The cold air seeping in woke me with a start.  I could feel it penetrating from every direction and I fumbled for the penlight and turned it on.   The vapor from our breath clung tightly to the air as it rose slowly to freeze on the walls of the tent.  Everything was covered in frost – the ceiling, the walls, my sleeping bag, and the hat I was wearing..the sides of my face….covered in white.   I looked at my watch – 2:30 am – and reached for the small thermometer I had placed on the tent floor when I crawled into the sleeping bag – I had to look at it twice – it read 22 below 0 F.  I leaned back on the makeshift pillow for a moment and listened to the stillness of the cold night occasionally broken with the loud snapping of trees in the cold air – often sounding like gunfire.

I was relaxing in front of a fire in the crispness of early morning when Crack! A sound like an explosion came from behind me in the woods. I scanned the trees and saw that a maple tree had “exploded”. The explosion caused a big crack in the tree about three feet high. When a winter wind stirs the frozen trees, they sometimes appear to burst vertically. When it was 40 degrees below zero at night, I lay awake and listened to the trees explode. That’s a true wilderness thermometer!

—Linda Runyon, The Essential Wild Food Survival Guide

 

I realized I had to pee….I cinched the mummy bag back over my head pulling it as tight as it could go so that only my nose was exposed to the cold and tried to go back to sleep.  But it didn’t go away.   I loosened the mummy bag and switched on the penlight again.  Everything I touched melted the frost on it and cooled my skin.  I thought about my boots out in the vestibule and cringed at the thought of putting those cold pieces of iron back on my feet to venture out to pee.  Then I had a thought – I was sleeping next to the door of the tent – I could probably actually relieve myself without having to get out of my sleeping bag.  It sounded like the perfect idea at the time and I reached out and unzipped the bottom of the tent door – inched my sleeping back over to it – unzipped the bag – and took a whizz right in the vestibule without having to get out in the cold air.  The next  morning was rather comical as the four of us rousted ourselves from the relative warmth to venture outside and crawling into the vestibule noticing the colored snow and calling out – wtf – who pissed in the vestibule?   That  morning we had a group member that had the beginnings of frostbite on his feet and each of us took turns putting his foot onto our chest to warm them up.

 

This was a trip with the boy scouts known as Okpik -Inuit for Snowy Owl and pronounced as (OOk’ pick).  A High Adventure winter camping/survival weekend that at the time (1980’s)  was in Howland Maine.  We had backpacks and sleds with our gear and skied into the woods about a mile or so and made camp…learning cold weather survival skills along the way.  One of the things that sticks out in my mind is heating the water we would drink for the day and then wearing it around our necks under our clothing so that it warms the chest..and learning to layer properly so that the perspiration from the days exertion wouldn’t freeze you later.

I remembered this story this morning at 3:40 am.  We’re in the middle of a pretty good cold snap here in Maine along with some pretty decent wind and this morning I felt that same sort of gentle brush of cold across my face that I felt all those years ago in that cold tent.  As I get older I feel the cold more  - I can

feel it enveloping and reaching out with it’s icy fingers.  And I remembered that on the two trips we took to OKPIK my Dad was there too.   On our second trip he experimented with digging a trench in the snow, lining it with a space blanket or similar, and sleeping in the trench with your sleeping bag with the theory that the surrounding snow would help to insulate you during the night.  However, he did this within the drip edge of a big spruce – a spruce that had a lot of snow on it from recent snowfall.  During the night the wind picked up a bit and the snow would slide off the spruce branches and onto him with an audible thump.  I was probably 14 or 15 on those trips which would have made Dad about 55 at the time.  I’m soon to be 45 and I would have to think long and very very hard before every going winter camping again – especially in those kinds of temperatures.  Dad’s pretty tough in my book.   If you’re reading this and you remember where in Howland the Adventure Base was please let me know – I’d love to go for a little walk up there after all these years.

Maine Trapline Fall 2012

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Maine Deer Dragging

My friend Peter shot a deer a couple of miles in the woods and with light fading fast three of us head in to get it out.  The light could have been better for filming but you get the idea.  It was a great night to be in the woods with temps in the high twenties, no wind, and a sky full of bright stars..carrying on a rich tradition.

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Backwoods Beaver

One of my favorite beaver flowages to trap was first found on a satellite map.  It’s a two mile ride on a bicycle followed by a 1 mile walk through the woods to get there, and it takes about two hours to get in and out with gear.  I enjoy the time spent in the woods and noticing all the subtle changes that occur from year to year as I make the annual trips in there.  Free from competition from other trappers I can manage the flowage by only taking a couple of beavers and ensure that each year the area will have beaver to harvest.  The flowage has produced some really big beavers over the years and should continue too as long as the aspen keeps growing…a true backwoods beaver.

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Another backwoods flowage;

 

 

Here’s an example of the work involved once you get the beaver out of the woods;

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Beaver in a Baby Carriage

The cool air hit my face and blew through my sweater as I took the bike off the back of the truck and started the long trek into the woods.  With two weeks off of work I was running a trapline on a large tract of gated land near my house.  The landowner allows access for recreational pursuits and I like getting away from any potential competition so I was looking at a 6 mile round trip, often times done with a very heavy load.  My friend Peter this year suggested I try using a baby carrier towed behind the bike to help take the load off my back and it has worked out well despite probably looking a little funny.   That was my thought at least this morning when I saw a truck come around the corner ahead of me – he’s seeing someone on a bike wearing hip boots and towing a baby carrier out in the middle of nowhere, and  for me I wondering who he is since he obviously has a key to the gate.  As is customary on a Maine woods road during the deer hunting season we stopped to talk it over and I was reminded about why I love Maine.  Our conversation went like this;

Hows that rig working out for you?

Fine

See anything?

No – fresh crossing just up the way though, but I’m not hunting – I’m trapping.

What are you trapping?

Beaver – just caught two up there where the road is washed out -might still be one more in there.  Want to see them?  One of them is huge…beaver in a baby carriage  (laughing)

Sure!! (hops out of truck)

That’s awesome!  Good for you coming out here getting some exercise – I’m the forester for this area and I’ve had to replace that culvert three times over the past few years – that’s awesome you’re in there catching them.  You know, the landowner has this really funny rule about not allowing bicycles in here…

really? I had no idea – I thought everyone was bike friendly -

It’s fine, not something I agree with (pulls out a map) let me show you on here where there is some other beaver….

I believe that’s how things are supposed to work – In an increasingly black and white world we need more gray.  I love that most people from Maine get that and embrace it.  You can check out more stories like this in The Two Maines  and  PO Box 311.

Beaver washout

 

 

Long Pond Jackman Maine

360 degree view – click and scroll side to side;

With fall quickly approaching we wanted to take a quick getaway before it was too late.  After a very busy summer we decided that a camp on a lake was what we needed.  We did a few searches and came up with some ideas and narrowed it down to the somewhere on the Moose River in Jackman with plans of climbing Kineo on Moosehead Lake and paddling some of the Moose river.

Recently we got a dog that did not have the best past and we’ve been working with him to give him the good life he deserves and he’s been doing fantastic.   We had plans to board him for the couple of days we’d be gone but we were ambivalent about doing it.  Then we talked with someone who had a bad experience where we were planning to take him and that sealed the deal – we were going to have to scale back our plans and the dog was coming along on vacation.  I’ve done my fair share of canoeing and camping in Jackman, but I had never heard of The Last Resort, which you can check out here   and that’s the place we decided on.  You can also find them on facebook here. As far as a remote Maine camp on a lake goes this place is idyllic.   The cabins are on Long Pond and spaced well with good vegetation buffers so you barely know there are people next to you.  There are lots of trails to explore, canoes/kayaks to rent, and the log cabins are very nice with porches overlooking the water.  If you’re looking for the log cabin on a lake Maine remote vacation this is the place, and we’ll be returning at some point in the future.

 

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Just A Short Walk in Maine

It was supposed to be just an ordinary everyday walk with the dog after work in a place where we’ve walked many times, but today ended up with two firsts.  The first and biggest mystery happened shortly after we got into the woods.  In this particular place I walk up an old grown in woods road, take a left into a growing up woods cut and loop around back to the old woods road in a big circle.  It’s an interesting area with lots of wildlife sign.  Except today, when I turned to go into the cut the dog did a weird jump.  I called him back and he jumped weird on the way back too.  It appeared that he didn’t want to touch a particular place on the ground.  So, I tried to make him walk over the spot and he would have nothing of it, running in the opposite direction to the end of his leash and sitting. I coaxed him over asking him what it was and pointing to the ground.  He slowly came over and did a big stretch to take a little sniff at the ground and again off in the other direction.    So, I got down on all fours and had a sniff for myself – kind of something musky but I couldn’t get much else. Nose just isn’t good enough I guess.   I think its the first time that I’ve seen a dog scared of a smell before.  He was acting like a horse does when  it smells a predator, all antsy and nervous.  Here is the spot he wouldn’t cross;

So now I was a little nervous.  I’ve seen bear sign up there but nothing recently and I’ve seen no evidence of bear baiters.  The area does look very “catty” though – between the cuts are dense fir/spruce thickets that look like great travel ways for bobcat.  Looking at the foreground of the picture you can see that the ground is scratched up a bit, here it is closer;

It kind of looks to me like a bobcat scrape.  From the Bobcat trappers guide “Scrapes made with the hind feet in soil or ground litter serve as intentionally constructed visual markers and are normally made at important activity areas in the home range.  These hind feet scrapes usually take the form of two parallel groves which  together form a mark that is somewhat rectangular in shape.  Scrapes are normally about 4-6 inches in width and 10-12 inches in length.”   I’ll never know for sure what he smelled out there, but my best guess is it was a bobcat, and he didn’t like it.

So with that puzzling around my brain we headed up the trail a ways, and I was looking down thinking about what he smelled when an owl took off from a branch directly above my head and flew down the trail and into a big pine.  I once came across a saw whet owl crossing a fir thicket to look up and see him staring at me with those big eyes, bobbing and weaving trying to figure out what I was, but this one was big, and completely silent flight.  It was amazing.  I only got a look at the rear end and wings and he had lots of barring.  Scared the bejesus out of me.  I tried to spy him in the pine but it was too thick to see.

Further up the trail the dog stopped and looked into the woods – I figured he was after another squirrel until a brace of partridges exploded from the underbrush.  A bit rattled now we carried on and when we looped back I was looking for the owl in the pine and he was right back where he was the first time and we jumped him again.  If only I’d seen him first to get a picture.  He was overlooking two small trails – waiting to ambush something I guess.  So, a simple after work dog walk turned into a pretty cool adventure.  Just a short walk in Maine.

Do It Yourself Fish Taxidermy

It was a drizzling, blustery, and too cold mid-April day to be fishing,  and I decided to put on a ridiculous looking yellow lure I found in the bottom of my tackle box,  troll back to the truck and call it a day.  About halfway across the pond something solid hit the lure and I set the hook and wondered what was on the other end of the line, as it felt way to heavy to be a typical brookie.  After playing it enough to get it into the boat I was shocked and surprised to see the biggest brook trout I had ever caught, and it tipped the scale at over three pounds.   It was, in my opinion, a fish that deserved to be mounted.   Being a young working Mainer however, the cost of having that done was prohibitive and at the time there was no way I could swing it.  So, I used a little Maine ingenuity and some backwoods engineering and figured out a way to do it myself for next to nothing, and the picture above is the mount of the fish I caught that day.

Here’s how you do it;  get a container that is bigger, wider, and deeper than the fish – I used a tupperware container that my mom used for cookies, and fill it half full with beach sand ensuring everything is level and even.  Put your fish into the sand so that half of the fish is in the sand and half is out of the sand keeping everything level and even.  Arrange the fins and mouth to your satisfaction – you can use small pins for this to get the desired effect.  Next mix some plaster of paris per instructions on the box and pour over the fish ensuring you’ve got everything covered plus enough on the sides to have something to attach it to your wall with after.  Allow the plaster to harden and carefully remove it from the sand and fish.  You can take a break and clean your fish at this point and come back to the project whenever you’re ready. What you have now is a negative mold of your fish.  From any hobby store you can get a mold release spray and spray or brush your mold with it ensuring good coverage.    At any local hardware store pick up some fiberglass and resin/hardener.  Cut the fiberglass into small strips, the smaller the better, and (wearing gloves)  gently start filling your mold with the fiberglass strips/resin, ensuring coverage everywhere.  Allow plenty of time for everything  to dry/harden, and carefully remove the mold from the glass being careful of the fins and other delicate areas.  This part can be tricky but have patience and keep working at it, and it will come off.  You now have your fish.  From the picture above you can see the detail that the plaster/glass provides  – including seeing the fishes lateral line.  The glass of course will be resin colored, I’m not good at painting detail so my Dad painted the colors on the fish you see above to try to get it as the original  – but you could get artsy with it and spray or paint it any color you want.

So, the next time you have a fish you’re thinking is worthy of mounting give it a shot – all it takes is some time to do it yourself  fish taxidermy.

Dead River Rough Cut

 

 

Maine’s people have always been a fiercely independent group.  It’s still possible here to buy a piece of land and live self dependently.  The epitome of how a tried and true Mainer thinks is beautifully represented in the film Dead River Rough Cut, following Walter Lane and Bob Wagg and documenting their way of life, trapping beavers, cutting trees, and reflections on life.

If you live in Maine you should see it because it will remind you of someone you know or knew – if you don’t live in Maine you should see it because it will give you an understanding of life in the Maine Woods, and although it is disappearing, there are still people who live this lifestyle.  Ironically, the film has the distinction of being the most requested film in the Maine Prison system.  Why?  My opinion is because the lifestyle in the movie represents what it truly means to be “free”.   I have known plenty of people just like Walter and Bob over the years, and I have at least one friend that lives similar to this today.

The film is a reality film made long before reality movies and TV were in vogue, and the Maine accents are priceless.  One of the more striking parts of the film is the recitation of Robert Service’s poem The Cremation of Sam Mcgee by Walter in front of the fire, who recites it by memory.

The Cremation of Sam McGee

    There are strange things done in the midnight sun
By the men who moil for gold;
The Arctic trails have their secret tales
That would make your blood run cold;
The Northern Lights have seen queer sights,
But the queerest they ever did see
Was that night on the marge of Lake Lebarge
I cremated Sam McGee.

    Now Sam McGee was from Tennessee, where the cotton blooms and blows.
    Why he left his home in the South to roam ’round the Pole, God only knows.
    He was always cold, but the land of gold seemed to hold him like a spell;
    Though he’d often say in his homely way that “he’d sooner live in hell.”

    On a Christmas Day we were mushing our way over the Dawson trail.
    Talk of your cold! through the parka’s fold it stabbed like a driven nail.
    If our eyes we’d close, then the lashes froze till sometimes we couldn’t see;
    It wasn’t much fun, but the only one to whimper was Sam McGee.

    And that very night, as we lay packed tight in our robes beneath the snow,
    And the dogs were fed, and the stars o’erhead were dancing heel and toe,
    He turned to me, and “Cap,” says he, “I’ll cash in this trip, I guess;
    And if I do, I’m asking that you won’t refuse my last request.”

    Well, he seemed so low that I couldn’t say no; then he says with a sort of moan:
    “It’s the cursèd cold, and it’s got right hold, till I’m chilled clean through to the bone.
    Yet ’tain’t being dead — it’s my awful dread of the icy grave that pains;
    So I want you to swear that, foul or fair, you’ll cremate my last remains.”

    A pal’s last need is a thing to heed, so I swore I would not fail;
    And we started on at the streak of dawn; but God! he looked ghastly pale.
    He crouched on the sleigh, and he raved all day of his home in Tennessee;
    And before nightfall a corpse was all that was left of Sam McGee.

    There wasn’t a breath in that land of death, and I hurried, horror-driven,
    With a corpse half hid that I couldn’t get rid, because of a promise given;
    It was lashed to the sleigh, and it seemed to say: “You may tax your brawn and brains,
    But you promised true, and it’s up to you, to cremate those last remains.”

    Now a promise made is a debt unpaid, and the trail has its own stern code.
    In the days to come, though my lips were dumb, in my heart how I cursed that load.
    In the long, long night, by the lone firelight, while the huskies, round in a ring,
    Howled out their woes to the homeless snows — Oh God! how I loathed the thing.

    And every day that quiet clay seemed to heavy and heavier grow;
    And on I went, though the dogs were spent and the grub was getting low;
    The trail was bad, and I felt half mad, but I swore I would not give in;
    And I’d often sing to the hateful thing, and it hearkened with a grin.

    Till I came to the marge of Lake Lebarge, and a derelict there lay;
    It was jammed in the ice, but I saw in a trice it was called the “Alice May.”
    And I looked at it, and I thought a bit, and I looked at my frozen chum;
    Then “Here,” said I, with a sudden cry, “is my cre-ma-tor-eum.”

    Some planks I tore from the cabin floor, and I lit the boiler fire;
    Some coal I found that was lying around, and I heaped the fuel higher;
    The flames just soared, and the furnace roared — such a blaze you seldom see;
    And I burrowed a hole in the glowing coal, and I stuffed in Sam McGee.

    Then I made a hike, for I didn’t like to hear him sizzle so;
    And the heavens scowled, and the huskies howled, and the wind began to blow.
    It was icy cold, but the hot sweat rolled down my cheeks, and I don’t know why;
    And the greasy smoke in an inky cloak went streaking down the sky.

    I do not know how long in the snow I wrestled with grisly fear;
    But the stars came out and they danced about ere again I ventured near;
    I was sick with dread, but I bravely said: “I’ll just take a peep inside.
    I guess he’s cooked, and it’s time I looked”; … then the door I opened wide.

    And there sat Sam, looking cool and calm, in the heart of the furnace roar;
    And he wore a smile you could see a mile, and said: “Please close that door.
    It’s fine in here, but I greatly fear, you’ll let in the cold and storm —
    Since I left Plumtree, down in Tennessee, it’s the first time I’ve been warm.”

    There are strange things done in the midnight sun
By the men who moil for gold;
The Arctic trails have their secret tales
That would make your blood run cold;
The Northern Lights have seen queer sights,
But the queerest they ever did see
Was that night on the marge of Lake Lebarge
I cremated Sam McGee.

I was reminded too of the bastardized names that seem so prevalent here – in the film when Walter is feeding a bird out of his hand he calls it a “pisspot”.    A couple of others I can think of are “shitpoke” for Great Blue Heron, and “shag” for a comorant.

All in all it’s good film. Representing the ingenuity, work ethic, ruggedism, individuality and independence that was and still is present here in the great state of Maine.



The Coyote and the Cat

 

Blackjack

Despite wanting to keep him indoors, Blackjack the cat attacked and jumped at the doorknob every morning with such fervor, and while some controversy surrounds letting a cat outside ( a friend of mine thinks that you should be required to purchase a hunting license if you let a cat outside) , he seemed to love being outside so much that I acquiesced to his demands and let him outside every day. He was an adopted from the shelter cat, and he had come a long way behavior-wise since coming into my home.  Although I had never been particularly fond of cats, he was pretty special, and I had grown accustomed to him sitting on my lap at night kneading with his paws.   He was usually there waiting for me each day when I got home,  except this particular afternoon, he was not waiting for me.  I wasn’t too worried when he didn’t come running after I called, but by dusk I was getting very concerned about his whereabouts. I strapped on the headlamp and followed his usual morning path into the woods. After a short walk of scanning the woods floor, in a little clearing I came across the tale. There were scuff marks in ground, and evidence of a short fight with some tufts of black hair that convinced me of my cat’s fate. Following the bent grass I came across fresh coyote tracks and that further cemented my theory that coyotes had got my cat.  Although I know that the coyote was only following his instincts revenge immediately came to mind – an eye for an eye as it were…you took from me, now I will take from you.   I thought about it, and decided to set a trap in the woods behind the house beyond where my cat was killed, which is legal here in Maine, and see what happened.    Several days of checking went by with nothing happening, until early one morning I awoke to noises out back. I immediately went outside and heard the ticking of the trap pan and knew I had something. The headlamp revealed a huge coyote, which I quickly dispatched. End of story? This is when the story really began to get interesting.  Four other coyotes were still in the woods, and were not leaving. About 50 yards out in a semicircle they howled and barked for almost a half hour before finally reluctantly turning back into the woods.  I figured by the rukus the others were making I had caught the pack leader as well. Curious, and now intrigued,  I threw some large bait out back after it snowed a couple of days later to see if and when they would return. It took two weeks before I saw tracks in the snow and the bait  had been dug up and dragged back into the woods. I kept putting bait behind the house and began following the pack – I learned a lot about where they slept and the trails they used around the area, and saw some places that I didn’t know existed out there in the woods. Once January and coyote breeding season arrived I noticed something funny – there were coyote tracks that would come in from a side trail and mingle with the pack for a while before leaving on another side trail. They were big and heavy prints, and looked like a big coyote. One morning a couple of days later,  shortly after leaving for work a big blonde coyote ran out in front of me. I decided to be late for work and followed him into the woods for a bit, and the tracks matched the ones I was seeing that were mingling in with the pack. A couple of weeks went by and the pack seemed to have accepted him, his tracks stayed with theirs and stopped leaving and returning, and their catnap beds in the snow returned to five from the four I had being seeing before.   It seemed he was now one of there own. Then, one cold night in February I was sitting in my chair having a drink in the evening, when suddenly a coyote howl split the night like an emergency siren.  It sounded like it was inside the house it was so loud. I quickly ran to the back door, grabbing my coyote howler on the way and flicked on the back light to reveal that blonde coyote just on the edge of the woods in the backyard looking and howling at the house. Chills ran up my spine as I watched him. I put the call to my lips and howled back. He sat still for a few minutes and with one more mournful howl turned back in to the woods and I never saw him again near the house.  In my mind I believe he became the new pack leader that breeding season, and he was telling me the pack and I were even.

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